These signifiers are products of the last ten years, smartphones and virtual social networking, and cultural icons like Bob Marley and Kim Kardashian. But in Saudi Arabia, an isolated Wahhabist paradise — and the largest and wealthiest country in the Middle East — these abbreviative signs are handy rhetorical devices for tapping into an unrestrained subculture while under the seemingly inescapable gaze of government censors. But then again, most products of modern life, particularly American culture, are. In the modern nation-state — be it liberal or Wahhabist — law-making is myth-making, and legal jargon, enforced by lashes and the death penalty, is fodder for the Saudi government, whose interests lie in maintaining the integrity and validity of the national imaginary. The instantiation of a national legal code supposedly creates and conscripts a legally sanctioned citizen, one that fits nicely within the Wahhabist doctrine of the Kingdom. Saudi individual does not exist outside of the bounds of the law. After all, there is no greater myth created by the law than the fact that it is completely constitutive of culture, that it sets the parameters within which culture exists. Bacchanalian events feature Saudi princes wielding Kalashnikovs at men who eye their women, cheetahs on top of Lamborghinis, and falcons perched on the shoulders of scantily-clad Eastern European women.
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Sitting on a street in Riyadh is an elderly, bearded man whose voice betrays a longing for the past. Asked about his past, Ibrahim his name, as well as those of the other interviewees, has been changed to ensure his safety squirms uncomfortably. He prefers not to look at women; during our conversation his gaze is directed elsewhere. Nor does he open up when asked what he thinks about the fact that the patrols are losing their power.
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Pursuing relationships outside of marriage in the kingdom once amounted to a death wish and selling red roses was like selling drugs. Now a sweeping liberalization drive allowed gender mixing has made it easier for young couples to meet in cafes and restaurants. Pre-marital relationships remain a cultural minefield. Covert dating operations illustrate how Saudi Arabia’s mainly young population is often compelled to lead dual lives in the pursuit of social liberties that may outstrip the kingdom’s capacity for change.
Saudi society is more open, but everyone lies about relationships because people are judgemental. Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman has loosened social norms; women have been seen swaying on the shoulders of men at music concerts as the kingdom tears down the walls of sex segregation.